རི Ri Guides 2020 fixed rope mountaineering expeditions and climbs in the Himalayas. Our main focus is on the mountains that are less climbed, with safety as the topmost priority. Our guides and sherpas has many years of working experience in the Himalayan mountains. We follow the latest mountaineering protocols and use only (UIAA) certified gears and equipments. We hope to climb these mountains with you.
Watch this space as we will add some more peaks for these calendar years in the coming days.
What are the differences between climbing a 6000m and a 7000m mountain?
Typical life in a Base Camp: A typical 6000m climb in the Himalayas involves a one or two day climb at the middle or the end of a trek. The trek helps in the acclimatisation process and the climbing part is like the final result of that process. On the contrary most 7000m expeditions operate out of a fixed base camp and there would be multiple camps on the mountain during the climb, involving climbing on fixed ropes with heavy packs, which can breakdown someone quite easily. This is where a climbing expedition gets serious. And it is normal to spend more than 50% of the total expedition days in a base camp. It is very important to use this time productively with an appropriate mix of resting and training. There can be a lot of 'down time' during an expedition and the people who cope with this best, they are the one who often performs best on the mountain. Some people read, some write and some listen to music. There isn't any 'correct' approach and different things suit different people. But It is upto each individual to think and bring their own solutions (preferably not involving things that need electricity!)
Clothing and Equipment: Everyone brings a number of new and unfamiliar items with them on a major expedition. You can practice with 7000m clothes and kits before the expedition well in advance. The key is to have a plan for how you are going to test the new items at the start of the expedition so that you are familiar with them by the time the summit push starts. Everyone needs a clear idea of what they have got and where it fits into their 'system'.
Tent life: This is helpful in base camp but very important on the mountain. Practice having a system for how to organise things in a tent. Keeping items like headtorch, water, pee bottle, etc in the same place which will enable you to find them easily at night and stay organised.
Tent time on a Mountain: Quite similar to base camp time! It is normal to move between mountain camps in the hours of darkness or early mornings and spend the rest in small tents(can get quite hot on higher camps). Not everyone can sleep in a small hot tent for a day. This is where some of your Base Camp solutions can be carried easily and used on the mountain.
Cold life: The human body needs oxygen and fuel (food) to create warmth. Oxygen levels fall almost 50% above 6000m and many people struggle to eat well at altitude. This is in addition to the lower external air temperatures. At lower altitudes there is always the option to move quicker to generate additional heat. This is not the case above 6000m where everyone generally moves much slower. Even if you have not suffered from the cold on previous climbs prepare for this one to be a factor when you climb higher. Hands, Feets and face are the 3 places where you will feel the cold most. Good boots that are correctly sized will look after your feet. If your feet are between two boot sizes always go for the larger size. There are several solutions to fill the excess space (volume reducers etc) but there is nothing you can do if the boots are too tight. Bring the best gloves you can find and hope that they are warm enough. Gloves allow you to do far more than mitts. But bring mitts too as a back up. In cold and windy conditions you need to be able to cover your entire face while still being able to breathe and see where you are going. The best for most people is: warm hat, ski goggles, ski mask, buff.
Water: A bottle with an insulated cover is the best way to keep the fluids warm. A lightweight thermos is also a good option.
Summit day: It is good to be able to eat and drink on a long summit day, but this is not always possible. Do hard exercise without eating or drinking anything and learn how your body copes with this. Energy gels carried in a warm pocket are a good option.
Weight: Group equipment to high camps on the mountain (tents, cooking kit, food etc) will be carried by the support staff. But you need to carry your own personal kit. If you go for the lightest options available (backpack, sleeping bag, mattress, harness, ice axe, crampons etc) you can keep this weight close to minimum. If you are not careful it can weigh a lot and every little thing will count. For some fit and strong people this might not be a problem, but for most people that little extra weight can mean the difference between success and failure on the mountain.
Fitness: It is really impossible to say how fit you need to be to climb a 7000m mountain. Altitude affects different people i different ways and the higher you go the more unpredictable the outcomes are. Some people make a smooth transition from low altitude fitness to high altitude fitness. While others, who might be strong in the Alps, can slow down disproportionately above 6000m. The only way to know how you will perform is to learn from experience. Every new height should be taken as a learning experience and not to assume if you were among the strongest on a 6000m climb, that the same will be the case on a 7000m climb.
2020 fixed rope mountaineering expeditions. The permits for these three mountains is issued to only one team at a time, so we will only have ourselves with the mountain.
2020 Dates: August 2020
2020 Dates: July 2020
2020 Dates: September 2020
2020 Dates: July 16 - July 30 (Trip running)
2020 Dates: June 16 - June 30 (Trip running)