Climb Kun (7,077m / 23,218ft) with  རི Ri Guides

A chance to climb one of the most easiest approachable 7000m+ peak in the Indian Himalayas - Kun 7077m

Kun is a stunning mountain, the second highest peak in between the Zanskar and Kargil regions of Ladakh in the far Western Himalayas of the Nun Kun massif.

The mountain was first climbed by an Italian team of Mario Piacenza, Lorenzo Borelli in 1913 via the North - East ridge.

We are seeking a small team of experienced and committed mountaineers with previous altitude experience to 6000m and technical alpine climbing experience of Moderate to Difficile standard to join us on the climb.

This expedition is suitable for people having atleast some mountaineering skills with a very good fitness level, wanting a high altitude mountaineering adventure. This mountain is an absolute introduction to cross the 7000m+ mark for anyone with some mountaineering knowledge, having good physical ability and who have the experience of climbing atleast one 6000m+ mountain or any other mountains across the Himalayas or in any other mountain ranges. This mountain will test your climbing skills and your fitness level.

This is a traditional expedition style climb with multiple camps on the mountain and a fixed base camp. Fixed ropes will be used on the sections of the climb wherever it may be necessary. We will have an acclimatisation trek before the climb or on an easier 6000m+ peak(optional)

The approach to Kun Base Camp is appealingly short and easily accessible

Leader Tsewang Namgyal is an experienced and strong Mountain Guide who has guided on this mountain for the past 7 years continuously with a very good safety and success record. Out of 7 expeditions 4 successfully made it to the summit. Namgyal has led 14-7000m expeditions with 9 successful ascent. He has solid credentials as a Mountain guide.

We are taking bookings for expeditions in 2019 and following years.
2019 Dates: July 2019 Contact us

The best climbing period is July to mid of October.

Duration: 26 days
  • 12 pre-climbing and acclimatisation days
  • 10 climbing days on Kun (includes rest days and days for contingencies)
  • 4 post-climbing days
Leader: Tsewang Namgyal
Grade: AD

Strenuous climb, Good mountaineering skills required with a very good fitness level. Previous experience of climbing a 6000m+ mountain is prerequisite or

a few previous mountaineering experiences would be an added bonus

Trip numbers:

max of 6 with 1 Mountain Guide and support Climbing Guides (Sherpas)

Accommodation:

Twin share hotel and camping while on trek

Snapshot itinerary:

Day 01: Delhi - briefing at Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF)
Day 02: Delhi - Leh
Day 03: Guided tour, acclimatisation
Day 04: Acclimatisation trek
Day 05: Acclimatisation trek
Day 06: Acclimatisation trek and rest
Day 07: Acclimatisation climb - Stok Kangri(optional)
Day 08: Stok Kangri - Leh
Day 09: Leh - Kargil
Day 10: Kargil - Shafat
Day 11: Trek to Kun Base Camp
Day 12: Base Camp
Day 13-22: Climbing period
Day 23: Base Camp - Shafat
Day 24: Shafat - Kargil
Day 25: Kargil - Leh
Day 26: Leh - Delhi - Debrief at IMF

Detailed itinerary:
Day 01: Arrive at Delhi and attend briefing at IMF

We will greet you at Delhi international airport and drive you to your hotel. We will go to the IMF for a briefing session. where we will get our climbing permit and meet our Liaison Officer. We can also visit the mountaineering museum in the same building.

Day 02: Fly from Delhi to Leh (3,500m/11,483ft)

Welcome to Leh, the capital of Ladakh, a large town tucked far in between the great mountain ranges of the Himalayas and East Karakoram and part of the great Trans Himalayan range. Your early morning 75 minute flight to Leh, the capital of Ladakh, over the Himalayas will be one of the most picturesque flights you’ll ever experience. If you sit on the left side of the plane, you will see Nun (7,135m / 23,409ft) and Kun (7,077m / 23,219ft), one of the two highest mountains in far western Ladakh. If the sky is clear, on the Northern horizon you will see K2 (8,611m / 28,251ft), the world's second highest peak, and other 8000m peaks of the Karakoram Range.

We will greet you at Leh airport and drive you to your hotel or home stay. The rest of the day depends on your jet lag and acclimatization to Leh’s high altitude. We can take an evening stroll in the old Leh town with narrow alleys with muslim bakeries, Tibetan monasteries, Tibetan and Kashmiri antique shops, and a bustling Main Bazaar.

Day 03: Acclimatisation and guided tour to Hemis Monastery and Thiksey Monastery

First half of the day:

Ladakh is the only place besides Tibet where almost all the major sects of Tibetan Buddhism still exist. You will see architecture and a lifestyle similar to Central Tibetan traditions and visit Hemis Monastery and Thiksey Monastery.

Tibetan Buddhism has been an integral part for the people of Ladakh for centuries, visiting a monastery can only do justice to know a bit about this centuries old tradition.

Hemis Monastery, belonging to the Drukpa Kagyu sect, is the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Ladakh. It was first built in the 11th century. Stories of Kalachakra and the Lords of the Four Quarters are etched on the walls of its ancient corridors. There are golden statues, precious stones and a library with Tibetan books, relics and manuscripts.

The Hemis Festival is a dazzling celebration of the birth of the Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava). The Cham Dance (masked dance by the monks) should not be missed at Hemis Monastery.

Thiksey Monastery, belonging  to the Gelugpa sect, is 12 stories high. It has 10 temples, showcases stunning Ladakhi architecture, a 15m high statue of Maitreya (future Buddha), fierce paintings and statues of deities and other Tibetan Buddhism artifacts.

Second half of the day(Optional):

Today is another rest day for you to get acclimatised and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere, the bustling Main Bazaar and explore the 17th century Leh Palace built by the King Singge Namgyal with Namgyal Tsemo Gompa perched on the top. Leh town is a bustling scene during the summer season and is packed with Kashmiri and Tibetan antique shops, many restaurants and cafes, muslim bakeries tucked behind the picturesque mosque in narrow alleys, and Ladakhi women selling vegetables and fruits and the people from Da Hanu selling their dried fruits and nuts at the end in the Main Bazaar.

Ladakh was once an integral part of Western Tibet and a major trading hub along the Silk Route. Caravans of merchants from far-flung areas such as Tibet, Yarkand, Kashgar, Northern lower India passed through Leh trading salts, wool, pashmina, spices, tea and semi-precious stones, everyone leaving a mark on this unique ancient capital.

We can also go for a walk up to the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa which overlooks the panoramic view of Leh and Leh Palace. We can visit the Central Asian Museum, and the nearby gompas (tibetan buddhist monasteries). The architecture of Leh Place resembles that of the Great Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. It will be great to walk the streets of changspa and climb up the many steps which leads us to the Japanese built Shanti Stupa to get a great view of the surrounding villages filled with green fields, willows and poplar trees and white washed Ladakhi houses. The precariously perched Leh Palace and Tsemo Gompa is on the eastern flank.

You can get view as far as to the Indus River and beyond that of the Stok range. Walking down we can visit the Sankar Gompa (17th - 18th century) which is the summer palace of Bakula Rinpoche (highly incarnated lama). This is tucked in between the Sankar village, amidst the groves of willow and poplar trees.

Day 04: Drive from Leh to Stok Village, trek to Mankarmo (5-6 hours, 4,300m/14,108ft)

Today is our first trekking day. We will drive to Stok Village from Leh, before loading our gear onto horses or mules and start walking to Mankarmo. We will walk along the stream, cross meadow, a ravine and a small pasta reach Mankarmo.

Day 05: Acclimatisation trek from Mankarmo (4,300m/14,108ft) to Stok Base Camp (3 hours, 5,000m/16,404ft)

We will ascend to reach a large plain which is Stok Kangri Base Camp.

Day 06: Acclimatising trek up to 5,300m (17,388ft) and rest day

We will trek over a small pass and come back down to Stok Kangri Base Camp.

Optional: We will rest and prepare to begin climbing Stok Kangri at midnight for an ‘alpine start’.

Day 07: Acclimatisation walk or Optional: Summit Stok Kangri (6,121m/20,082ft, 10+ hours)

Today we can go for an acclimatisation walk around and gain some height.

Optional: Starting around midnight, we will cross snowfields and loose rock terrain to reach the summit of Stok Kangri. You will see a spectacular vista of snow-capped mountains and as far as the Karakorum Range with the 8000m+ mountain giants.

Day 08: Descend from Base Camp and return to Leh

We will descend from base camp today, get picked up at Stok Village and be driven to Leh.

Day 09: Drive from Leh to Alchi Monastery, Lamayuru Monastery and Kargil (2,676m/8,780ft)

Much of our time will be spent driving to Kargil today. At Lamayuru, we will encounter landscape which has been compared to the moon’s surface. If time allows, we will visit Alchi Monastery and Lamayuru Monastery on the way to Kargil.

Located on the South bank of the Indus River, Alchi Monastery is said to be built between 958 AD and 1055 AD. Alchi Monastery belongs to the Gelugpa sect and contains some of the oldest surviving paintings of Buddhism and Hindu Kings. It also contains huge statues of the Buddha and elaborate wood carvings and artwork.

Lamayuru Monastery (belonging to the Drikung Kagyu sect) is one of the largest and oldest monasteries in Ladakh, dating back to the 10th century. Approximately 150 monks reside at the monastery. The monastery houses a rich collection of artifacts, wall paintings, statues and carpets.

Day 10: Drive from Kargil to Shafat Valley (a.k.a. Golmatangus, 3,700m/12,139ft)

From Kargil, we will drive along the Suru River through a valley, taking breaks in small villages. Today, we will see Kun and Nun for the first time. We will camp in a large meadow next to Suru River in the Shafat Valley.

Day 11: Trek to Base Camp (4,650m/15,256ft, 6 hours)

We will cross a bridge over Suru River and ascend through meadows covered in Edelweiss flowers. We will cross the glacial moraines to reach Kun Base Camp.

Day 12: Rest and sort gear at Base Camp

We will prepare the equipment, gear and food for the climb.

Day 13 – 22: climbing days (including rest days and days for contingencies)
  • Base camp (4,650m/15,256ft) to Camp 1 (5,340m/17,520ft, 4-5 hours ascent, 2 hours decent)

The route crosses small rivers in moraine terrain. After setting up a gear stash in this area we will continue to ascend and negotiate several small crevasses.

  • Camp 1 (5,340m / 17,520ft) to Camp 2 (6,120m / 20,079ft, 8 hours ascent)

The route involves ascending 800m on 30-35 and 40-45 degree steep snow slopes using fixed lines. A snow plateau between Nun and Kun is where Camp 2 is situated. Climbers look directly at the rock and ice face of Kun here.

  • Camp 2 (6,120m/20,079ft) to Camp 3 (6,330m/20,768ft, 3-4 hours ascent)

The route involves crossing the snowy plateau between Nun and Kun. We will rest in Camp 3 before climbing to the summit with an alpine start.

  • Summit day (7,077m/23,219ft, ascend and descend in 12-15 hours)

The route involves ascending a ridge and a 50 degree+ steep snow slope using fixed lines. The summit view is undoubtedly spectacular. After summiting, we will descend as far as we can go to the lower camps, e.g. Camp 3. The next day, we will descend to Kun Base Camp.

Day 23: Trek from Kun base camp (4,650m / 15,256ft) to Shafat Valley (3,700m / 12,139ft)

Today we will return to Shafat Valley. Horses or mules will carry most of our gear from Kun Base Camp to Shafat Valley.

Day 24: Drive from Shafat Valley to Kargil or Leh

We will drive to Kargil or Leh.

Day 25: Drive from Kargil to Leh, or relax in Leh.

Enjoy Leh’s attractions and prepare for your flight out to Delhi tomorrow.

Day 26: Leh - Delhi - IMF debrief

Upon arrival in Delhi in the afternoon, we will go to the IMF for the expedition’s debriefing.

Here, the expedition officially ends.

Please note: This itinerary is approximate. Clients are embarking on adventure travel in a remote mountain region and the itinerary is subject to weather, road conditions, vehicles and local availability of horses or mules. Ri Guides will make every effort to see that clients acclimatize completely, and complete and enjoy their trip.

Please readRiGuidesTermsandConditionsandLegal. Prices are in US dollars and are subject to change.

Inclusions:
  • Experienced and certified local Mountaineering Guide and Sherpas who have summited Kun multiple times
  • Experienced guide for monasteries
  • InReach satellite messaging system (when allowed)
  • PAC(Portable Altitude Chamber) bag
  • Oxygen saturation monitoring system
  • Oxygen cylinder at the Base Camp
  • Boiled water
  • Safe sanitary, delicious and plentiful food and drinks
  • Full medical kit
  • Fixed ropes and equipment for fixing the route
  • All accommodation in Delhi and Leh with breakfast
  • Camping accommodation (Tents) while acclimatising and climbing Nun
  • Butane gas and burners for high camps
  • Camping equipment which includes sleeping tent, mess tent, dining tent and toilet tent
  • All meals and drinks while trekking and climbing
  • Good quality food serviced by experienced cook and attendants
  • Service of horses or mules and their drivers
  • Liaison officer’s fee to the IMF, accommodation and transportation
  • Porters for all the equipment, gear and food
  • All monastery entrance fees and camping fees
  • Pick up from Delhi Airport, Leh Airport
Exclusions:
  • Flights - please ask us if you need help with arranging your domestic flights
  • Personal clothes, personal climbing climbing gear and sleeping bag
  • Medical and evacuation insurance
  • Meals and drinks in Leh and Delhi except breakfast (breakfast is included with accommodation)
  • Laundry services
  • Other services not mentioned in the package
  • Extra cost if the expedition finishes early and the cost arising from early departures
  • Tipping our crew.
Price:US$5040 p/p

Hotel Single Supplement: Additional $200.

Tips and Extra Cash: Allow approximately minimum $500 for meals (while not on trek), extra drinks (on trek) and cash for tips

Contact us to create your own trip in the Himalayas today.

 

Experience Required

Members of the team must have several years of regular mountaineering experience, including previous ascents on snow and ice to 6000m+ and recent experience of alpine mountaineering to level Moderate/Difficile

Preparations and Travel

BOOKING DEADLINE: Bookings must be received at least before May 2019 in order to make staff and accommodation arrangements. Later bookings will be considered with possible surcharge to cover the extra costs of these services when booked at short notice.

TRAVEL: International and Domestic Flight schedules: You will be responsible for your international and domestic flight bookings. We will be there to assist you if you need help with the domestic flight bookings.

TRAINING: All members must be in the best possible state of physical training before the trip. Plenty of mountain walking with a pack weight of 12-16kg and daily distances of 16-20km is recommended together with local training running, cycling, gym training or whatever you prefer. Those who have had a lay-off from the mountains must make special efforts to get back to good fitness. Short trips to the mountains will be highly useful if time/finances allow. There is no substitute for getting out on the hills and mountains in your place in preceding months. There is only limited time to acclimatise and get fit on the expedition. At high altitude any lack in physical preparation is quickly exposed.

INSURANCE: All team members must have Rescue, Medical and Repatriation Insurance cover. In addition, cover for Cancellation/Curtailment, Personal Baggage, 3rd party Liability and Personal Accident is strongly recommended.

Check out: Ri Guides Insurance and Travel Rescue

INOCULATIONS: Tetanus, TB (BCG inoculation), Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Diptheria – essential.

Rabies, Japanese Encephalitis, Hepatitis B – recommended but optional.

Anti-malarials – not recommended.

Check out: Ri Guides Health and Fitness

MONEY IN INDIA: You should take $500 in cash to cover Drinks, Tips, Evening Meals in hotels and Personal Sundries plus a credit card for use in Delhi and Leh.

PERMITS: Nun is an open peak on the Indian Mountaineering Foundation listings; permits are required and each member must submit bio-data and photos after booking for this purpose. We will send you a pre-form application.

INDIAN VISA: A Tourist Visa is required for entry to India and the eTourist Visa offers a simple option for this short-duration trip, with on-line application and approval.

Check out: Ri Guides Indian Visa Information

EQUIPMENT: Boots must be warm enough to sustain extreme conditions at 7000m. Millet 8000m boots, Scarpa Phantom 8000 fabric boots, La Sportiva Olympus Mons, La Sportiva Spantiks, La Sportiva G2SM or Scarpa Phantom 6000 are recommended. Light trekking shoes or trainers can be worn for all travel and trekking. One or Two axes, technical Crampons, Helmet, Jumar and lightweight Harness are required for the climbs. A 4 season sleeping bag, and a down jacket, are essential for warmth. Clothing must withstand a big temperature range from -25degC at night to +25degC by day. Take a 60-80 litre Rucksack.

MAPS: Google Earth software provides the best current topographic information on the area.

Trekking Map: Topographic map: 1:150000 Ladakh Central sheets (by Olizane) of Ladakh and Zanskar

ACCLIMATISATION AND ALTITUDE PROFILE: The schedule allows 4 nights on trek at altitudes between 3500 and 5000m and a further 2 nights at base camp at 4600m before ascending higher. The acclimatisation climb gives at least two nights at 5400m before the big ascent higher altitudes. From Camp 2 progress along the ridge with 2 nights between 6000-6500m. This will provide a strong acclimatisation base for the summit push

WEATHER AND CLIMBING CONDITIONS: The Nun Kun massif offers generally settled weather in the month of July August with relatively warm temperatures at high levels. After mid September there is likely to be instability as cold winter air is slowly displaced with snowfall and storms in afternoons. Night temperatures on the mountain can be down to minus 20degC at 6500m and on the summit.

Life During Expedition

Accommodation: We provide good hotels in Delhi and Leh. There is a $200 single room supplement.

Load-carrying: During the trek to base camp members should carry personal effects and clothing, enough to get fit and acclimatized (12-14kg.). On the climb above base camp members must carry personal kit and some communal kit. A load of 15 - 16kg will be typical for the ascent to Summit Camp. Our Climbing Guides(Sherpas), will carry the bulk of communal equipment, food and fuel till the last camp (6500m).

Provisions for medical treatment: We carry a full field medical kit and advertise for a doctor or paramedic to join the team. All Guides have mountain first aid certificates, and long experience of expedition ailments.

Food: The food on the trip will be largely vegetarian. Our cook will provide a wholesome largely vegetarian diet of fresh-cooked Indian, Chinese and Continental food. Please inform us of any special dietary requirements prior to leaving.

Drinks: Soup, Fruit Drinks, Drinking Chocolate, Tea, Coffee, Herbal Tea.

Mountain Food: Soups, Indian ready meals, freeze-dried meals, noodles, cous-cous, tuna fish and cheese.

Indian staff: We will have a Cook and his assistants, Sherpas. All the staff are regulars on our trips and have achieved a very high reputation for service, support and team spirit.

Tents: We will provide all tents for the mountain and the trek.

 

If you have any further questions about our Expedition then please get in touch!
ཇུ་ལེ། Jullay!