Climb Nun (7,135m / 23,409ft) with  རི Ri Guides

A chance to climb one of the most easiest approachable 7000m+ peak in the Indian Himalayas - Nun 7135m

Nun is the highest peak in between Zanskar and Kargil regions of Ladakh in the far Western Himalayas of the Nun Kun massif, but not the highest in Ladakh as some refers to this peak as. There are many other peaks higher than this in the Eastern Karakoram Range.

 

The mountain was first climbed by a French-Swiss-Sherpa team in 1953 via the West Ridge till Camp 2 and on the West Face above 6500m. It takes a magnificent ridge after Camp 1 with magnificent views of the whole Zanskar and Kisthwar range. A series of crevasses must be equipped with fixed lines before Camp 1, the next is the vast snow plateau, then the actual west ridge must be equipped with fixed lines all the way up to Camp 2. But at 6200m the ridge opens up to give easier alpine-style climbing to the summit camp. Steepness of 60 degrees and above on the West Face for the first part of the climb from the summit camp and a grade M4 mixed climbing on the fixed line above 7000m leads to the top.

We are seeking a small team of experienced and committed mountaineers with previous altitude experience to 6000m and technical alpine climbing experience of Moderate to Difficile standard to join us on the climb.

This climb is suitable for people with good mountaineering skills with a very good fitness level, wanting a high altitude mountaineering adventure. Nun is also an absolute introduction to cross the 7000m+ mark for anyone with some mountaineering knowledge, having good physical ability and who have experience of climbing at least one 6000m+ mountain or any other previous mountaineering experiences would be an added bonus.

The approach to Nun Base Camp is appealingly short and easily accessible from the roadhead.

Leader Tsewang Namgyal is an experienced Mountain Guide who has guided on this mountain for the past 5 years with a very good safety and success record. Out of 4 expeditions 3 were successful with one making it above 7000m on this particular mountain. Namgyal has led 14-7000m expeditions with 9 successful ascent. For Namgyal Nun is one of his favourite 7000m peaks.

The trip includes a road journey through the beautiful mountains of Ladakh, a very easy approach trek of just 1 day up to the Base Camp, and an acclimatisation trek nearby Leh.

 

We are taking bookings for expeditions in 2019 and following years.
2019 Dates: August 2019 Contact us

The best climbing period is from July to middle of October.

Duration: 26 days
12 pre-climbing and acclimatisation days
10 climbing days (includes rest days and days for contingencies)
4 post-climbing days
Leader: Tsewang Namgyal
Grade: AD+

Strenuous climb, Good mountaineering skills and a very good personal fitness level required. Previous experience of climbing a 6000m+ mountain is prerequisite or a few previous mountaineering experiences would be an added bonus.

Trip numbers:

max of 6 with 1 Mountain Guide and support Climbing Guides (Sherpas)

Snapshot itinerary:

Day 01: Delhi - briefing at Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF)
Day 02: Delhi - Leh
Day 03: Guided tour around Leh
Day 04: Acclimatisation trek
Day 05: Acclimatisation trek
Day 06: Acclimatisation trek and rest
Day 07: Acclimatisation climb on Stok Kangri
Day 08: Stok Kangri base camp - Leh
Day 09: Leh - Kargil
Day 10: Kargil - Tangol
Day 11: Trek to Nun Base Camp
Day 12: Base Camp
Day 13 - 22: Climbing period
Day 23: Base Camp - Tangol
Day 24: Tangol - Leh
Day 25: Leh
Day 26: Leh - Delhi - debrief at IMF

Detailed itinerary:
Day 01: Arrive at Delhi and attend briefing at IMF

We will greet you at Delhi international airport and drive you to your hotel. We will have a briefing session at the IMF and obtain our climbing permit and meet the Liaison Officer. There is also a mountaineering museum in the same building.

Day 02: Fly from Delhi to Leh (3,500m / 11,483ft), the capital of Ladakh

Welcome to Leh, the capital of Ladakh, a large town tucked far in between the great mountain ranges of the Himalayas and East Karakoram and part of the great Trans Himalayan range. Your early morning 75 minute flight to Leh, the capital of Ladakh, over the Himalayas will be one of the most picturesque flights you’ll ever experience. If you sit on the left side of the plane, you will see Nun (7,135m / 23,409ft) and Kun (7,077m / 23,219ft), one of the two highest mountains in far western Ladakh. On the Northern horizon you can see as far as K2 (8,611m / 28,251ft) on a clear day, the world's second highest peak, and other 8000m peaks of the Karakoram Range.

We will greet you at Leh airport and drive you to your hotel or home stay. The rest of the day depends on your jet lag and acclimatisation to Leh’s high altitude. But we strongly recommend you to take it easy on the first day, rest and drink plenty of fluids. We can take an evening stroll around old Leh town narrow alleys with muslim bakeries, Tibetan monasteries, Tibetan and Kashmiri antique shops, and a bustling Main Bazaar or just nearby Leh town if you want to avoid crowds.

Day 03: Acclimatisation and guided tour to Hemis Monastery and Thiksey Monastery

First half of the day:

Tibetan Buddhism has been an integral part for the people of Ladakh for centuries, visiting a monastery can only do justice to know a bit about this centuries old tradition.

Hemis Monastery, belonging to the Drukpa Kagyu sect, is the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Ladakh. It was first built in the 11th century. Stories of Kalachakra and the Lords of the Four Quarters are etched on the walls of its ancient corridors. There are golden statues, precious stones and a library with Tibetan books, relics and manuscripts.

The Hemis Festival is a dazzling celebration of the birth of the Buddhist Guru Rinpoche. The Chham Dance (masked dance by the monks) should not be missed at Hemis Monastery.

Thiksey Monastery, belonging to the Gelugpa sect, is 12 stories high. It has 10 temples, showcases stunning Ladakhi architecture, a 15m high statue of Maitreya (future Buddha), fierce paintings and statues of deities and other Tibetan Buddhism artefacts.

Second half of the day(Optional):

Today is another rest day for you to get acclimatised and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere, the bustling Main Bazaar and explore the 17th century Leh Palace built by the King Singge Namgyal with Namgyal Tsemo Gompa perched on the top. Leh town is a bustling scene during the summer season and is packed with Kashmiri and Tibetan antique shops, many restaurants and cafes, muslim bakeries tucked behind the picturesque mosque in narrow alleys, and Ladakhi women selling vegetables and fruits and the people from Da Hanu selling their dried fruits and nuts at the end in the Main Bazaar.

Ladakh was once an integral part of Western Tibet and a major trading hub along the Silk Route. Caravans of merchants from far-flung areas such as Tibet, Yarkand, Kashgar, Northern lower India passed through Leh trading salts, wool, pashmina, spices, tea and semi-precious stones, everyone leaving a mark on this unique ancient capital.

We can also go for a walk up to the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa which overlooks the panoramic view of Leh and Leh Palace. We can visit the Central Asian Museum, and the nearby gompas (tibetan buddhist monasteries). The architecture of Leh Place resembles that of the Great Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. It will be great to walk the streets of changspa and climb up the many steps which leads us to the Japanese built Shanti Stupa to get a great view of the surrounding villages filled with green fields, willows and poplar trees and white washed Ladakhi houses. The precariously perched Leh Palace and Tsemo Gompa is on the eastern flank.

You can get view as far as to the Indus River and beyond that of the Stok range. Walking down we can visit the Sankar Gompa (17th - 18th century) which is the summer palace of Bakula Rinpoche (highly incarnated lama). This is tucked in between the Sankar village, amidst the groves of willow and poplar trees.

Day 04: Drive from Leh to Stok Village, trek to Mankarmo (5-6 hours, 4,300m / 14,108ft)

The first trekking day. After driving to Stok Village from Leh, we will start walking towards Mankarmo. Once we are in the valley we won't be able to get much views other than the mountains besides, cliff walls, streams. We will walk along the stream, cross meadows, a ravine and a small pass to get to Mankarmo.

Day 05: Trek from Mankarmo (4,300m / 14,108ft) to Stok Kangri Base Camp (3 hours, 5,000m / 16,404ft)

Today is fairly a short walk, climbing gradually up towards Stok Kangri Base Camp.

Day 06: Acclimatising trek up to 5,250m (17,224ft) and resting at Stok Kangri Base Camp

Today we will go for a walk till the Advance Camp crossing a ridge just next to the Base Camp, come back and rest to make an ‘alpine start’ to climb Stok Kangri at midnight.

Day 07: Summit Stok Kangri (6,121m / 20,082ft, 10 hours minimum)

Starting around midnight, we will first climb the steep hill just next to the base camp to get to the top, it will be a gradual climb from here till the glacier, the ascent involves climbing on snow in low gradient for the first part, and some mixed climbing on snow, ice and loose rocks till we travers across to the ridge, from here we will take the ridge which mostly consists of loose rocks. The climbing conditions will also depend on the snow from the last winters. At the summit, there is a spectacular vista of Himalayan mountains and the Karakorum Range with its 8000m+ giants seen at a distant on a clear day.

Day 08: Descend from Base Camp and return to Leh

Descend from base camp all the way back to where we started our trek, get picked up at Stok Village and be driven to Leh.

Day 09: Drive from Leh to Lamayuru Monastery and Kargil (2,676m/ 8,780ft)

Much of our time will be spent driving to Kargil. At Lamayuru, there is spectacular landscape that has been compared to our moon’s surface. We will visit Lamayuru Monastery on the way to Kargil.

Lamayuru Monastery, belonging to the Drikung Kagyu sect, is one of the largest and oldest monasteries in Ladakh, dating back to the 10th century. The monastery houses a rich collection of artefacts, wall paintings, statues and most importantly the Tibetan buddhist canons.

Day 10: Drive from Kargil to Tangol (3,700m / 12,139ft, 3-4 hours)

From Kargil, we will drive alongside the Suru River to reach Tangol. Get past some beautiful villages spread across the vast serene Suru Valley. Today, we will see Kun and Nun for the first time. Meet our porter team, sort and distribute equipment in the evening.

Day 11: Trek to base camp (4,600m/15,091ft, 6 hours)

Our porter team will come very early morning, so expect some early morning noise.  After a good early morning breakfast, we hike to Nun Base Camp. It is a beautiful climb up on grassy meadows, and the climb gets steeper and steeper. once we are finished with the climb, it a gradual walk amongst wild flowers and then on loose rocks on glacial moraine. We will then have to cross the snout of the glacier and climb a steep tricky part to get to the base camp which is located next to a stream and amongst rock boulders. This will be our home for the next few days.

Day 12: Rest and sort gear at Base Camp

Today we will prepare the equipment, gear and food for the climb.

Day 13 – 22: climbing days (including rest days and days for contingencies)
  • Base camp (4,600m / 15,091ft) to Camp 1 (5,420m / 17,782ft, 5-6 hours)

    The route involves climbing scree slopes and rocky moraine before reaching a glacier. Once we cross the glacier, we will use around 350m of fixed lines to climb and negotiate heavily crevassed section. We will establish Camp 1 on a vast snow plateau.

  • Camp 1 (5,420m / 17,782ft) to Camp 2 (6,100m / 20,013ft, 6+ hours)

    We will first cross the vast snow plateau to reach the base of the climb. From here the route involves mixed climbing on snow, ice and rock. You will use fixed lines all the way to reach Camp 2 on an exposed ledge(It is the spot), but can be a bit windy or a crevassed col.

  • Camp 2 (6,100m / 20,013ft) to Camp 3 (6,490m / 21,292ft, 4+ hours)

    Everyone needs to rope up and use fixed lines on some sections to negotiate crevasses. The climb is quite easy and short depending on the condition, as the route changes almost every year. Camp 3 is situated on a small plateau.

  • Summit day (7,135m / 23,409ft, 10+ hours)

    We will be doing an alpine start for the summit. It involves climbing a steep slope(450m approx 60˚-70˚) of snow and ice and tricky rock section(150m approx) below the summit ridge. Again, we will be using fixed lines all the way. The summit view is truly spectacular.

After summiting, we will descend back to Camp 3 or as far as possible to the lower camps – e.g. Camp 2, depending on how everyone's feeling so as just to shorten the next days descend. The next day, we will descend all the way to the Base Camp.

Day 23: Nun Base Camp (4600m / 15,091ft) to Tangol (3,700m / 12,139ft)

Descend from Nun Base Camp and return to camp at Tangol.

Day 24: Tangol - Leh (3,500m / 11,483ft)

We will be driven from Tangol to Leh and ‘acclimatise’ to civilisation again.

Day 25: Leh

Enjoy Leh’s attractions and prepare for your flight out to Delhi tomorrow.

Day 26: Leh - Delhi - IMF debrief

Upon arrival in Delhi in the afternoon, if anyone is interested you can go to the IMF for the expedition’s debriefing, and from the previous experiences not many are interested and it is not very necessary also.

Here, the expedition officially ends.

Please note: This itinerary is approximate. Clients are embarking on adventure travel in a remote mountain region and the itinerary is subject to weather, road conditions, vehicles and local availability of horses or mules. This may affect trekking, climbing and campsite locations and the timing of rest days. Ri Guides will make every effort to see that clients acclimatise completely, complete the trek or expedition and enjoy their trip.

Please note that there will also be a possibility that if we are able summit on time, we might have extra days after the climb.

Please read RiGuidesTermsandConditionsandLegal. Prices are in US dollars and are subject to change.

Inclusions:
  • Experienced and certified local Mountaineering Guide and Sherpas who have summited Nun multiple times
  • Experienced guide for monasteries
  • InReach satellite messaging system (when allowed)
  • PAC(Portable Altitude Chamber) bag
  • Oxygen saturation monitoring system
  • Oxygen cylinder at the Base Camp
  • Boiled water
  • Safe sanitary, delicious and plentiful food and drinks
  • Full medical kit
  • Fixed ropes and equipment for fixing the route
  • All accommodation in Delhi and Leh with breakfast
  • Camping accommodation (Tents) while acclimatising and climbing Nun
  • Butane gas and burners for high camps
  • Camping equipment which includes sleeping tent, mess tent, dining tent and toilet tent
  • All meals and drinks while trekking and climbing
  • Good quality food serviced by experienced cook and attendants
  • Service of horses or mules and their drivers
  • Liaison officer’s fee to the IMF, accommodation and transportation
  • Porters for all the equipment, gear and food
  • All monastery entrance fees and camping fees
  • Pick up from Delhi Airport, Leh Airport
Exclusions:
  • Flights - please ask us if you need help with arranging your domestic flights
  • Personal clothes, personal climbing gear and sleeping bag
  • Medical and evacuation insurance
  • Lunch and dinner at the Hotel (breakfast is included with accommodation)
  • Laundry services
  • Other services not mentioned in the package
  • Extra cost if the expedition finishes early and the cost arising from early departures
  • Tipping our crew.
Price: US$5040 p/p.

Hotel Single Supplement: Additional $200.

Tips and Extra Cash: Allow approximately minimum $500 for meals (while not on trek), extra drinks (on trek) and cash for tips

Contact us to create your own trip in the Himalayas today.

Experience Required

Members of the team must have several years of regular mountaineering experience, including previous ascents on snow and ice to 6000m+ and recent experience of alpine mountaineering to level Moderate/Difficile

Preparations and Travel

BOOKING DEADLINE: Bookings must be received at least before May 2019 in order to make staff and accommodation arrangements. Later bookings will be considered with possible surcharge to cover the extra costs of these services when booked at short notice.

TRAVEL: International and Domestic Flight schedules: You will be responsible for your international and domestic flight bookings. We will be there to assist you if you need help with the domestic flight bookings.

TRAINING: All members must be in the best possible state of physical training before the trip. Plenty of mountain walking with a pack weight of 12-16kg and daily distances of 16-20km is recommended together with local training running, cycling, gym training or whatever you prefer. Those who have had a lay-off from the mountains must make special efforts to get back to good fitness. Short trips to the mountains will be highly useful if time/finances allow. There is no substitute for getting out on the hills and mountains in your place in preceding months. There is only limited time to acclimatise and get fit on the expedition. At high altitude any lack in physical preparation is quickly exposed.

INSURANCE: All team members must have Rescue, Medical and Repatriation Insurance cover. In addition, cover for Cancellation/Curtailment, Personal Baggage, 3rd party Liability and Personal Accident is strongly recommended.

Check out: Ri Guides Insurance and Travel Rescue

INOCULATIONS: Tetanus, TB (BCG inoculation), Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Diptheria – essential.

Rabies, Japanese Encephalitis, Hepatitis B – recommended but optional.

Anti-malarials – not recommended.

Check out: Ri Guides Health and Fitness

MONEY IN INDIA: You should take $500 in cash to cover Drinks, Tips, Evening Meals in hotels and Personal Sundries plus a credit card for use in Delhi and Leh.

PERMITS: Nun is an open peak on the Indian Mountaineering Foundation listings; permits are required and each member must submit bio-data and photos after booking for this purpose. We will send you a pre-form application.

INDIAN VISA: A Tourist Visa is required for entry to India and the eTourist Visa offers a simple option for this short-duration trip, with on-line application and approval.

Check out: Ri Guides Indian Visa Information

EQUIPMENT: Boots must be warm enough to sustain extreme conditions at 7000m. Millet 8000m boots, Scarpa Phantom 8000 fabric boots, La Sportiva Olympus Mons, La Sportiva Spantiks, La Sportiva G2SM or Scarpa Phantom 6000 are recommended. Light trekking shoes or trainers can be worn for all travel and trekking. One or Two axes, technical Crampons, Helmet, Jumar and lightweight Harness are required for the climbs. A 4 season sleeping bag, and a down jacket, are essential for warmth. Clothing must withstand a big temperature range from -25degC at night to +25degC by day. Take a 60-80 litre Rucksack.

MAPS: Google Earth software provides the best current topographic information on the area.

Trekking Map: Topographic map: 1:150000 Ladakh Central sheets (by Olizane) of Ladakh and Zanskar 

ACCLIMATISATION AND ALTITUDE PROFILE: The schedule allows 4 nights on trek at altitudes between 3500 and 5000m and a further 2 nights at base camp at 4600m before ascending higher. The acclimatisation climb gives at least two nights at 5400m before the big ascent higher altitudes. From Camp 2 progress along the ridge with 2 nights between 6000-6500m. This will provide a strong acclimatisation base for the summit push

WEATHER AND CLIMBING CONDITIONS: The Nun Kun massif offers generally settled weather in the month of July August with relatively warm temperatures at high levels. After mid September there is likely to be instability as cold winter air is slowly displaced with snowfall and storms in afternoons. Night temperatures on the mountain can be down to minus 20degC at 6500m and on the summit.

Life During Expedition

Accommodation: We provide good hotels in Delhi and Leh. There is a $200 single room supplement.

Load-carrying: During the trek to base camp members should carry personal effects and clothing, enough to get fit and acclimatized (12-14kg.). On the climb above base camp members must carry personal kit and some communal kit. A load of 15 - 16kg will be typical for the ascent to Summit Camp. Our Climbing Guides(Sherpas), will carry the bulk of communal equipment, food and fuel till the last camp (6500m).

Provisions for medical treatment: We carry a full field medical kit and advertise for a doctor or paramedic to join the team. All Guides have mountain first aid certificates, and long experience of expedition ailments.

Food: The food on the trip will be largely vegetarian. Our cook will provide a wholesome largely vegetarian diet of fresh-cooked Indian, Chinese and Continental food. Please inform us of any special dietary requirements prior to leaving.

Drinks: Soup, Fruit Drinks, Drinking Chocolate, Tea, Coffee, Herbal Tea.

Mountain Food: Soups, Indian ready meals, freeze-dried meals, noodles, cous-cous, tuna fish and cheese.

Indian staff: We will have a Cook and his assistants, Sherpas. All the staff are regulars on our trips and have achieved a very high reputation for service, support and team spirit.

Tents: We will provide all tents for the mountain and the trek.

 

If you have any further questions about our Expedition then please get in touch!
ཇུ་ལེ། Jullay!

 

Nun Climb 2018
Some moments from the previous expedition to Nun in August 2018.